"Softness is power — we don't need to dress like men," asserts Yuhan Wang who is presenting her second collection on the Fashion East platform. Wang's delicate designs are fashioned in silk satins, in lace, velvet and tulle to ripple and flounce around the female form.Read More
Only with an understanding of construction, and the female form, as masterful as Alaverdian’s can silhouettes prowl the boundaries of sex and solemnity quite like this. With total agency over their desire and their ability, this season’s muses are makers, demonstrators and educators…Read More
The ASAI woman has swum oceans, endured chaotic war zones and now wants to take root. It’s not her home. She has none as yet. But Englishness from afar appeals. The spice has dissipated to make way for wools that have lived ….Read More
We chatted with independent womenswear designer, Simon Ekrelius.
Born and raised in Sweden, Simon has made his mark in both the design and film industry. His designs are synonymous with architectural lines and reoccurring themes described by himself as ‘futuristic, bohemian and architecturally inspired’.
We found out about his passion for design, challenging obstacles, favourite film, the mafia and so much more. WE just LOVE him.
HUMBLE; Simon, thank you so much for doing this quick interview for HUMBLE magazine, first question, Where and when did you find your passion for design?
SIMON; I sew my own clothes as a teenager and I use to alter my clothes as a child with a scissor and thread, always been fascinated by the effect styling has to each individual, small cuts here and there makes a huge impact. And what fabric is used for what etc. I drew people, from the age of 4 to present, we are a very odd looking animal. So, to dress them in my imagination in the drawing from early age made my passion and the way I think.
HUMBLE; What was the transition like from graduation to finding yourself in the ‘real’ world of design and finally making it. Is there anything you would do different?
SIMON; Never regret anything but of course sometimes we compare ourselves with our colleagues and think ohh that would be nice but they probably do the same, grass is never greener, just different.
It was very tough to squeeze through the already crowded scene. But I was lucky in many ways. I met some amazing people that helped me to visualise my brand more understandably for buyers and private clients. I always been a yes person so that helps, if you are a no person with suspicious eyes you never go very far.
When graduating in Stockholm (90’s) I was active in competitions (big & small), and that helped me enormously, I never won but at least I created a buzz.
HUMBLE; What were the 3 most challenging obstacles that you had to overcome in the industry up until now?
SIMON; buyers, buyers and buyers £0£
They can be your best friend and your worst enemy, so and I have never acquired salesman style in my head. It is the most boring part of fashion but the most vital in order to survive, hence why I am having a break. They are under a huge pressure themselves so understandably they push it further.
HUMBLE; Was designing for films always the aim?
SIMON; I love working in film, (I don’t have to sell, yay) and the people are passionate and warm, mostly. Of course, you have idiots everywhere but at least I can sleep at night now and I get paid. There is very little money in fashion and if there is you must be careful of dodgy investors. (Dubai shippers,,, and The mafia is very keen to clean up their ‘income’)
HUMBLE; Do you have a favourite piece from the film ‘Love and other stuff’?
SIMON; Yes, love that short, my other favourite is ‘The Sound of Fear’ with Jonny Freeman (mi high) but soon there will be a film titled ‘The power of One Coin’ out, directed by Flaminia Graziadei, cast Katy Manning, Jacob Ifan and Carlotta Morelli which I think will be a beautiful piece, It’s about Love, dementia and loneliness.
HUMBLE; What was your first experience on a film set like? How nervous were you?
SIMON; The first film I did was in 1997 ‘Annica’ And yes it was nerve wrecking because I had to design and make a wedding costume for a very large dog, and there was a priest and many more characters outside my comfort zone of beautiful size 8 models. But I wasn’t nervous about being on set all though I did fell over on some of the important cables which is not popular,,, when being a stand by.
HUMBLE; What is the hardest thing about being on a film set?
SIMON; the hours, the food and to be so quiet that you must learn to breath like a snail does. Through the skin,,, ha-ha
HUMBLE; What is your favourite film?
SIMON; The Hours
HUMBLE; What advice would you give to students wanting to be film costume designers?
SIMON; Don’t be afraid to ask designers to assist to begin with, in that way you learn so much quicker. and when you assist make sure that you are quiet and useful, prepare and be a step ahead all the time,
HUMBLE; Simon, your last collection (AW15-16) and we saw some beautiful shapes and lines, where did you get your inspiration from for this collection?
SIMON; The X collection was inspired by my childhood memories, I’m a gen X and I where I grew up were people from all over the world, they were so friendly and interesting, always inviting me for dinner when my mum was working late. I learned a lot from them.
HUMBLE; Is there a particular person who has had a big influence on your design process?
SIMON; My grandma was a very particular person with an eagle eye for design and craft. She was striking as a person and she was a model in Sweden in the 1940’s, so she had a sharp look too.
HUMBLE; What film star would you love most to wear your designs?
SIMON; Silly question but I guess it would be fun to dress Cate Blanchett, Jonny Depp, and Margot Robbie
HUMBLE; Will we be seeing a new collection from you any time soon?
SIMON; Maybe 💋 or maybe not.
We at Humble can only hope so, take a look at more of Simon Ekrelius’ designs and work on his website here; https://www.simonekrelius.com .
FOR ART’S SAKE launches their AW18 (see now buy now) collection of sunglasses with their fun, quirky, and eclectic graduating class: the Class of FAS. The campaign takes the idea of high school cliques and clichés and uses it as a way to explore the different elements of the IMPERFECTIONIST, which is a term For Art’s Sake created to describe creative,
adventurous people who are unafraid of looking imperfect in order to achieve something new. Consisting of eight personalities that represent the varied nature of the ‘Imperfectionist’, the Class of FAS campaign is a colourful, exaggerated, and tongue-incheek (but only slightly) celebration of young, creative people in today’s society.
The AW18 collection is For Art’s Sake’s fifth collection. In For Art’s Sake’s continued effort to push the boundaries of what eyewear can look like, the collection focusses on brand new colour-ways for translucent lenses, and design-led stainless steel frames with creative silhouettes. For this collection, the devil (or more accurately, the goddess) is in the details. In
one model, clam shells open on the side of the lenses to reveal miniature pearls, inspired by the iconic Boticelli painting, The Birth of Venus. In other styles, frames that overlap and extend beyond a single plane create a 3D silhouette, which mark this collection out as one of the most experimental yet. As always, each pair is lovingly handmade from the highest
Xiwen Zhang, Creative Director, said of the collection: ‘We want to go against the grain of the tiny sunglasses trend and continue to focus on producing what looks good. More than that, however, we want people to feel good. That’s why we coined the term ‘Imperfectionist’. We want people to wear our sunglasses according to their own style, look good, and feel good.’
The accompanying campaign introduces eight personalities of the Class of FAS: the Creator, Rule-Breaker, Procrastinator, Odd Ball, ‘Gives No Fucks’, Activist, Sneezer and the Good Girl Gone Bad. Each character is an exploration of For Art’s Sake’s term, the ‘IMPERFECTIONIST’, and reflects a mentality and lifestyle of creative freedom, fighting for positive change, and not following the rules. These are values that are close to For Art’s Sake’s heart. The term ‘IMPERFECTIONISM’ was coined by For Art’s Sake in 2017 and has become the founding message upon which every product, photoshoot and partnership develops. Imperfectionism is for everyone, after all. The collection will be available to purchase online on the 31st March, 2018, and will be stocked at premium retailers worldwide soon thereafter.
130 Milliners from all over the world (Spain, USA, Korea, UK, Ireland, Germany, Australia...30 countries) will showcase their 200 beautiful creations inspired by a piece of history or culture, or crafted with unique technique or craftsmanship of their nation, at a central London venue next to the British Library and King’s Cross St. Pancras station. There will also be a pop-up shop with a further 100 hats on display!
The name of 2018 London Hat Week official exhibition came from the historical event that took place in London in 1851. The Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations or ‘The Great Exhibition’, sometimes referred to as the Crystal Palace Exhibition, was an international exhibition that took place in Hyde Park, London. It was the first in a series of World’s Fairs, exhibitions of culture and industry that became popular in the 19th century, and it was a much-anticipated event. Following the successful ‘21st Century Hat Exhibition’ in 2015 and ‘Milliner x Artisan’ exhibition in 2016, we celebrate world culture heritage in magnificent hat designs at The Great Hat Exhibition in March, 2018.
The exhibition is managed and curated by Monique Lee, founder of X Terrace, a fashion platform tailored to connect creatives in Europe with fast growing fashion companies worldwide. Monique's designs have been featured on more than 200 covers of the most prestigious magazines in the world such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, L’Officiel, and she has also recently become one of the official milliners for Royal Ascot 2018.
for more visit www.xterrace.com
Written by Jordan Ellen Wood
Whether we are scrolling through influencers Instagrams or checking out all the fashion week news, you are bound to come across someone that looks effortless in designer gear. Whilst you on the other hand can’t even step out of the house without a toothpaste stain down your top… But with upcoming designers, buyers and bloggers to soon watch out for, we have to learn how to be street style ready in case we get snapped.
Of course, being on trend is key. You won’t be a head turner if you are wearing a trend from 2 years ago.. Despite how many times you love those bobbly high waisted trousers. As NYFW is over, Fashion Month is still continuing and there is time for us to show the streets how well catwalks influence our wardrobes. continues and the streets are just as anticipated as the runways. Do you know which trend to go for? Or are you the ones, like me, that leave everything till the morning of?
Pretty in pink
Pink is a colour we hate to love, but at the moment we don’t mind shouting it from the rooftops. Great for layering with different hues or clashing with a pillar box red. It is time to release the power of pink.
The double d’s
I know I speak on everyone's behalf when i say I am glad double denim is back!! A pair of jeans can be took advantage of, as they are seen as an everyday item. But adding a ripped hem, having some jewels or going brighter than a packet of starbursts, can bring a lot more depth to your look.
Lavender is the grown up version of Lilac, and I have seen it everywhere during fashion month. The pastel tone is great for the ones who want to grunge up a “girly” colour. All of a sudden I am thinking about Palma Violets…
As we all should know, trench coats are a staple piece in our wardrobes. They practically go with everything. Whether you like your classic Burberry caramel colour or want to paint the town red in a colour that screams all things bold. Pair with a versatile favourite; mom jeans.
Sometimes the thought of having to pick and plan an outfit can get us pulling every strand of hair out.. A quick tip? Don’t. Invest in a statement jacket with a bold print on. Chuck over some of your most minimal pieces, and you have yourself an outfit worth street snapping.
Don’t chuck out your ugly shoes
That is right… The pair of shoes you would wear to go on a muddy walk in, or something that your dad brought you who has no style. But the shoes that were once known as “ugly” are now the new faves. They bring an edge to an outfit, that turns your most casual outfit into a statement one.
Bag yourself a bumbag
Some people called them bum bags, others called them fanny bags… But either way, the waist centred bag has been one to make an appearance on all celebrities and fashion influencers. How can you not love a bag that helps you have your hands spare for the extra glass of prosecco at the events?
What trend will you go for? Tag us in your fashion week outfits @humble_mag
‘Glamour is an imaginative process that creates a specific emotional response: a sharp mixture of projection, longing, admiration, and aspiration. It evokes an audience’s hopes and dreams and makes them seem attainable, all the while maintaining enough distance to sustain the fantasy’, Virginia Postrell British designer Claire Tagg launches her eponymous label for AW18 showcasing a dramatic, oriental inspired fauna and flora collection. The AW18 season is inspired by a personal story of her travels as an Air Hostess, combining glamour and destructed textures to creative a dramatic yet opulent range.
The AW18 collection sees cut and silhouette inspired by formal airline uniforms. Structured jackets and blazer style dresses are juxtaposed with oversized full skirts and ballgowns constructed in luxurious Duchess Satin. Despite the more grown-up aesthetic of the collection, the core identity of the brand remains.
The tone of the season is sophistication, with an elegant clean colour palette, hosting baby pinks and mustard yellows with contrasting fuchsias and black. Highlights of metallic gold draw attention to the decadence within the garments. The new designer contrasts textures using delicate fabrics of chiffon and satin alongside raised sequinned lace, cotton, satin and silk jacquard.
Tagg keeps her signature layered aesthetic using digital printing to create rich textures of ripped paper alongside a cherry blossom placement print and elaborate embellishment. Each garment is lovingly hand beaded, creating a unique piece every time with no two pieces looking the same.
Accessories continue to play a strong part in the brand with colourful beaded jewellery alongside fabric belts with plane seat belt fastenings. Tagg graduated from The University Of The Creative Arts, Rochester, having won the New Designers Hainsworth Statement Award and winning runner up for the Womenswear Award at Graduate Fashion Week. The carefully handcrafted collection ranges from £500 for separates, to £1600 for hand embellished ballgowns.
WOULD LIKE TO THANK: Fashion Scout, Nicola Hitchens, AW Hainsworth and my family for there constant support. SHOW PRODUCTION: Fashion Scout Events MAKE-UP: Paul Merchant and team using products by KRYOLAN HAIR: Hair created by the TONI&GUY Session Team lead by Jon Wilsdon, using label.m Professional Haircare Styling SPECIAL THANKS TO: Martyn Roberts, The team at Fashion Scout, Kryolan and Toni & Guy PR BY NICOLA HITCHENS firstname.lastname@example.org @claire.tagg | #clairetagg @fashionscoutlondon | #fashionscout | #fashionpioneers www.clairetagg.com | www.fashionscout.co.uk
Written by Jordan Ellen Wood
When you heard the rumours about fashion icon Victoria Beckham showcasing her collection at London Fashion Week, you rolled your eyes in envy incase you missed it...But shortly after the rumours were fueled with a confirmation her collection will be at the worldwide fashion event, we knew it would be one stylish week not to miss (or forget). After Men's Fashion Week was a highlight of January already, we all knew we had to start planning out outfits ASAP for Womens Fashion Week and get ahead of the game.
One of the biggest fashion cities in the world will be holding talent from all aspects of the creative industry, from bloggers to designers, and buyers to photographers. As we wait in anticipation of who will be on the FROW at all the designers showcases, let's have a look at what designers will be there…
Marta Jakubowski 16TH February 15:00 pm
Born in Poland and raised in Germany, it was from a young age that Marta wanted a career in fashion. She graduated with an MA from the Royal College of art in 2014. Her previous experience has entailed her to produce magnificent collections, with working with designers such as Alexander Wang and Jonathan Saunders, which later on inspired her more to create her own label.
Ashley Williams 16th February 19:00 pm
Being able to showcase her collection in the city she was born and raised in, is Ashley Williams. A promising young designer, set to take the fashion world by storm. Ever since graduating from The University of Westminster in mid 2012, she was always known as one to watch. Williams is currently stocked internationally in leading retailers including Selfridges in London, Colette in Paris and Joyce in Hong Kong.
JW Anderson 17th February 10:00 am
Irish born Jonathan Anderson is a recognizable name in the fashion industry, by setting his name by his dreamy collections. The fashion designer was first recognised in 2008s London Fashion Week with his labels first collection.The success of this debut collection earned both critical acclaim and commercial success for Anderson, whose label is now regarded as one of London’s most innovative and forward thinking brands.Anderson's aesthetics has other designers quivering at their feet with his unique design of providing an interpretation of masculinity and femininity. JW Anderson has evolved into an internationally renowned and award-winning brand. In the past, accolades have included British Fashion Awards for ‘Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear’ (2012), ‘The New Establishment Award’ (2013) and 'Menswear Designer of the Year' (2014). Most recently at the 2015 British Fashion Awards the brand received an historic double award for ‘Menswear’ and ‘Womenswear Designer of the Year’, the first time any brand has ever won both prestigious awards.
Simone Rocha 17th February 12:00 pm
Forn in Ireland, Dublin was critically acclaimed fashion designer Simone Rocha. Her talent came from what she learnt at The National Collection of Art and Design in Dublin, which later studied at Central Saint martins. Her collections have gained her some of the most prestigious stockists in the world including Dover Street Market, Browns, Colette in Paris, Ikram in Chicago, Bergdorf Goodman and 10 Corso Como in Milan, Seoul and Shanghai. She has done numerous projects which have inspired other ambitious designers, from launching a collaboration with US based denim label J Brand to being received editorial coverage from high fashion publications such as Vogue US, Interview, Purple, Dazed and Confused and CR Fashion Book. Rocha has evolved into an internationally renowned and award-winning brand. In the past, accolades have included British Fashion Awards for ‘Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear’ (2013) and ‘The New Establishment Award’ (2014). Most recently at the 2016 Fashion Awards Simone received the “British Womenswear Designer Award” as well as the 2016 Harper’s Bazaar Designer of Year Award.Simone works on seasonal imagery and produces limited edition printed books featuring this and the works of collaborators and inspirations. Simone has worked with Jacob Lillis, Eoin McLoughlin, Louise Bourgeois, Perry Ogden, Niall O’Brien, Roni Horn and most recently Jackie Nickerson for these books.
House of Holland 17th February 18:30 pm
His name is what got the fashion world talking, after capitulating the limelight of everyone else after his irrelevant slogan tees. The slogan tees featured numerous ‘fashion groupie’ slogans with catchphrases that spoke louder than words. If you have a tee then you will recognise the phrases “uhu gareth pugh” and “get your freak on giles deacon”. In February 2008, after two seasons showing with Fashion East, House Of Holland held its first solo show on the London Fashion Week schedule to critical acclaim. Now in the brand’s 10th year, House Of Holland is firmly established in the international fashion arena and in January 2012 was awarded a two-season fashion forward sponsorship. Holland pictures the girl who wears his collections as someone who has a london aesthetic in mind and has various attitudes, cultures and mindsets about them. They are also cool, confident and savvy and wears labels without letting them wear her. If you are one of those girls, then you have done Henry Holland proud.
Nicopanda 19th February 18:00 pm
Known for his unsurpassed creativity and magnificent collaborations is style influencer Nicola Formichetti. And if you haven’t heard of his brand NICOPANDA, then you must of been living under a rock for the past few years. The city influenced brand has all things edgy and playful for the perfect ready-to-wear collection. NICOPANDA is at the forefront of the fashion world with the over the top creativity and uniqueness in the work. Loved by street culture enthusiasts around the world and frequently seen on the hottest celebrities and influencers, NICOPANDA is designed for all and available to all.
And if they are only a few of the 80 designers showcasing, then you know the rest will be shows not to miss… Make sure to stay tune with all the updates and news at LFW.