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We chatted with independent womenswear designer, Simon Ekrelius.
Born and raised in Sweden, Simon has made his mark in both the design and film industry. His designs are synonymous with architectural lines and reoccurring themes described by himself as ‘futuristic, bohemian and architecturally inspired’.
We found out about his passion for design, challenging obstacles, favourite film, the mafia and so much more. WE just LOVE him.
HUMBLE; Simon, thank you so much for doing this quick interview for HUMBLE magazine, first question, Where and when did you find your passion for design?
SIMON; I sew my own clothes as a teenager and I use to alter my clothes as a child with a scissor and thread, always been fascinated by the effect styling has to each individual, small cuts here and there makes a huge impact. And what fabric is used for what etc. I drew people, from the age of 4 to present, we are a very odd looking animal. So, to dress them in my imagination in the drawing from early age made my passion and the way I think.
HUMBLE; What was the transition like from graduation to finding yourself in the ‘real’ world of design and finally making it. Is there anything you would do different?
SIMON; Never regret anything but of course sometimes we compare ourselves with our colleagues and think ohh that would be nice but they probably do the same, grass is never greener, just different.
It was very tough to squeeze through the already crowded scene. But I was lucky in many ways. I met some amazing people that helped me to visualise my brand more understandably for buyers and private clients. I always been a yes person so that helps, if you are a no person with suspicious eyes you never go very far.
When graduating in Stockholm (90’s) I was active in competitions (big & small), and that helped me enormously, I never won but at least I created a buzz.
HUMBLE; What were the 3 most challenging obstacles that you had to overcome in the industry up until now?
SIMON; buyers, buyers and buyers £0£
They can be your best friend and your worst enemy, so and I have never acquired salesman style in my head. It is the most boring part of fashion but the most vital in order to survive, hence why I am having a break. They are under a huge pressure themselves so understandably they push it further.
HUMBLE; Was designing for films always the aim?
SIMON; I love working in film, (I don’t have to sell, yay) and the people are passionate and warm, mostly. Of course, you have idiots everywhere but at least I can sleep at night now and I get paid. There is very little money in fashion and if there is you must be careful of dodgy investors. (Dubai shippers,,, and The mafia is very keen to clean up their ‘income’)
HUMBLE; Do you have a favourite piece from the film ‘Love and other stuff’?
SIMON; Yes, love that short, my other favourite is ‘The Sound of Fear’ with Jonny Freeman (mi high) but soon there will be a film titled ‘The power of One Coin’ out, directed by Flaminia Graziadei, cast Katy Manning, Jacob Ifan and Carlotta Morelli which I think will be a beautiful piece, It’s about Love, dementia and loneliness.
HUMBLE; What was your first experience on a film set like? How nervous were you?
SIMON; The first film I did was in 1997 ‘Annica’ And yes it was nerve wrecking because I had to design and make a wedding costume for a very large dog, and there was a priest and many more characters outside my comfort zone of beautiful size 8 models. But I wasn’t nervous about being on set all though I did fell over on some of the important cables which is not popular,,, when being a stand by.
HUMBLE; What is the hardest thing about being on a film set?
SIMON; the hours, the food and to be so quiet that you must learn to breath like a snail does. Through the skin,,, ha-ha
HUMBLE; What is your favourite film?
SIMON; The Hours
HUMBLE; What advice would you give to students wanting to be film costume designers?
SIMON; Don’t be afraid to ask designers to assist to begin with, in that way you learn so much quicker. and when you assist make sure that you are quiet and useful, prepare and be a step ahead all the time,
HUMBLE; Simon, your last collection (AW15-16) and we saw some beautiful shapes and lines, where did you get your inspiration from for this collection?
SIMON; The X collection was inspired by my childhood memories, I’m a gen X and I where I grew up were people from all over the world, they were so friendly and interesting, always inviting me for dinner when my mum was working late. I learned a lot from them.
HUMBLE; Is there a particular person who has had a big influence on your design process?
SIMON; My grandma was a very particular person with an eagle eye for design and craft. She was striking as a person and she was a model in Sweden in the 1940’s, so she had a sharp look too.
HUMBLE; What film star would you love most to wear your designs?
SIMON; Silly question but I guess it would be fun to dress Cate Blanchett, Jonny Depp, and Margot Robbie
HUMBLE; Will we be seeing a new collection from you any time soon?
SIMON; Maybe 💋 or maybe not.
We at Humble can only hope so, take a look at more of Simon Ekrelius’ designs and work on his website here; https://www.simonekrelius.com .
130 Milliners from all over the world (Spain, USA, Korea, UK, Ireland, Germany, Australia...30 countries) will showcase their 200 beautiful creations inspired by a piece of history or culture, or crafted with unique technique or craftsmanship of their nation, at a central London venue next to the British Library and King’s Cross St. Pancras station. There will also be a pop-up shop with a further 100 hats on display!
The name of 2018 London Hat Week official exhibition came from the historical event that took place in London in 1851. The Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations or ‘The Great Exhibition’, sometimes referred to as the Crystal Palace Exhibition, was an international exhibition that took place in Hyde Park, London. It was the first in a series of World’s Fairs, exhibitions of culture and industry that became popular in the 19th century, and it was a much-anticipated event. Following the successful ‘21st Century Hat Exhibition’ in 2015 and ‘Milliner x Artisan’ exhibition in 2016, we celebrate world culture heritage in magnificent hat designs at The Great Hat Exhibition in March, 2018.
The exhibition is managed and curated by Monique Lee, founder of X Terrace, a fashion platform tailored to connect creatives in Europe with fast growing fashion companies worldwide. Monique's designs have been featured on more than 200 covers of the most prestigious magazines in the world such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, L’Officiel, and she has also recently become one of the official milliners for Royal Ascot 2018.
for more visit www.xterrace.com
For PRE FALL and AW18 designers Tamara and Natasha Surguladze of Tata Naka have chosen to celebrate various folk traditions and costumes of Eastern Europe. Strong standing vintage designs are translated into modern shapes and silhouettes to create a striking collection that blends the past with the present.
This eclectic collection features references to the famous floral Russian shawls of Pavlovo Pasad, dating back to the 1800s, as well as the accordion pleated sleeves of traditional dance costumes of Szek. Motifs typically from Georgian Kilims of the 1920s and 1930s are also seen running through the collection in the form of figurative prints portraying the images of traditional Red Army officers on horseback, two lions or deer.
Russian shawls are used as an interpretation of the term ‘flowers on your shoulders’, and padded features can be seen on classic double-breasted coats, jackets and bombers, giving the collection a modern twist. The PRE FALL collection features polka dot cotton pieces mixed with tulle frills and decorated with multiple trims as well as shapes taking inspiration from traditional Columbian and Seminole costumes.
The inspiration around 1920’s Georgian literature is very visible within the AW18 collection, the image of two animals represents love and two animals with a life tree in the middle is the symbol of happiness.
Photographer Benjamin Tietge
Autumn Winter 2018 finds the EDELINE LEE woman contemplating the dark and secret gardens within herself. She is still and reflective. She is divinely feminine, the archetypal Eve. The silhouette is considered and nearly monastic.
The colors are rich and jewelled: Purple, Red, Navy, Amber Green and Black. Edeline continues to explore the limitations of her signature Flou Bubble Jacquard and fluid, heavyweight Georgette Champion. Pure Virgin Wool Boucle outerwear add generous warmth and proportion, and a series of fully sustainable Organic Cotton T-shirts and Sweatshirts playfully elaborate on the themes of the collection. An opulently textured, three-dimensional Floral Jacquard is cut into tailored shapes and fanciful distorted ruffles. Garments are draped into lush folds and flounces, weighed down by hand-rolled and wrapped tassels, and wrapped up into a deceptively simple bow.
All Edeline Lee pieces are made by hand in England, of fabrics woven in Italy and France.
Written by Jordan Ellen Wood
When couture came to mind, it was always about the corsets that were too tight to breath in or the over embellished gowns, but with fashion constantly reinventing itself, there is bound to be a new image to couture. Designers such as Valentino, Viktor & Rolf and the craziest fashion house of them all, Maison Margiela, revamped the word couture and made it their own by inspiring others to go for a more daring route in their collections. But how can we pick apart the best from the best of what was draped all over our fashion fingertips.
Think saturated hues, reflective fabrics and layers upon layers. Only one fashion mogul comes to mind, and what better way to start some of the best couture collections of 2018 so far… Maison Margiela. The french luxury fashion house is sculpts from what could pass off as a unicorns mind. The vivid colours are a staple piece in the SS18 collection. “When I returned to designing, I was taken aback by how everyone was seeing shows through their phones,” John Galliano said at a preview this week. “Freezing the glamour of the accidental, the magical moment,” Galliano called it—another stage in the progression of his thoughts about “dressing in haste.”
And you thought couture couldn’t be minimal… Givenchy's 2018 Spring Couture collection was one we all would love to wear down the high street (or have hung up in our wardrobes for our best days), but the subtle colour palette through this collection is one that didn’t go unnoticed. “I wanted to use the strength of tailoring, but in a feminine way,” she said.
Is it just me or is it whenever you hear Chanel are releasing a new collection, you get excited as you want to know what artistic talent Karl Lagerfeld has put behind the runway show? We have seen them all… But at the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2018, it was one to talk about, having the show decorated with trellises of pink roses, ponds flowing with rivulets and fountains of water. The scene was set for the collection to come down the runway from all things pretty in pink and feminine chic. “There is a time for prettiness: when the world is becoming too ugly,” said Karl Lagerfeld after his Chanel show.
From sultry mustard tones to duck egg blues, the contemporary ideas, behind Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s worth while waiting collection, proved glamour can come in all shapes and styles. Letting loose on draped fabrics, feathers and all things bow related, Valentinos show got everyone wanting MORE MORE MORE! Bringing a gender neutral collection to his show, Piccioli hit the nail on the head by creating couture trouser pieces and proving that you can mix pink and blues together without looking like a packet of bon bons.
Her collection felt like you walked into Fairy-tale. An event that took you back to the 1920’s; where the glam and glitzy lifestyle felt like your own. Elie Saab Spring Couture 18 collection had a colour palette so refined and fresh that you felt romantic. The gowns were draped in beads, jewels, feathers and any other embellishments you can think of.. The tones of champagne, silvery blue and rose pink were enough to give us goosebumps.
Written by Jordan Ellen Wood
When you heard the rumours about fashion icon Victoria Beckham showcasing her collection at London Fashion Week, you rolled your eyes in envy incase you missed it...But shortly after the rumours were fueled with a confirmation her collection will be at the worldwide fashion event, we knew it would be one stylish week not to miss (or forget). After Men's Fashion Week was a highlight of January already, we all knew we had to start planning out outfits ASAP for Womens Fashion Week and get ahead of the game.
One of the biggest fashion cities in the world will be holding talent from all aspects of the creative industry, from bloggers to designers, and buyers to photographers. As we wait in anticipation of who will be on the FROW at all the designers showcases, let's have a look at what designers will be there…
Marta Jakubowski 16TH February 15:00 pm
Born in Poland and raised in Germany, it was from a young age that Marta wanted a career in fashion. She graduated with an MA from the Royal College of art in 2014. Her previous experience has entailed her to produce magnificent collections, with working with designers such as Alexander Wang and Jonathan Saunders, which later on inspired her more to create her own label.
Ashley Williams 16th February 19:00 pm
Being able to showcase her collection in the city she was born and raised in, is Ashley Williams. A promising young designer, set to take the fashion world by storm. Ever since graduating from The University of Westminster in mid 2012, she was always known as one to watch. Williams is currently stocked internationally in leading retailers including Selfridges in London, Colette in Paris and Joyce in Hong Kong.
JW Anderson 17th February 10:00 am
Irish born Jonathan Anderson is a recognizable name in the fashion industry, by setting his name by his dreamy collections. The fashion designer was first recognised in 2008s London Fashion Week with his labels first collection.The success of this debut collection earned both critical acclaim and commercial success for Anderson, whose label is now regarded as one of London’s most innovative and forward thinking brands.Anderson's aesthetics has other designers quivering at their feet with his unique design of providing an interpretation of masculinity and femininity. JW Anderson has evolved into an internationally renowned and award-winning brand. In the past, accolades have included British Fashion Awards for ‘Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear’ (2012), ‘The New Establishment Award’ (2013) and 'Menswear Designer of the Year' (2014). Most recently at the 2015 British Fashion Awards the brand received an historic double award for ‘Menswear’ and ‘Womenswear Designer of the Year’, the first time any brand has ever won both prestigious awards.
Simone Rocha 17th February 12:00 pm
Forn in Ireland, Dublin was critically acclaimed fashion designer Simone Rocha. Her talent came from what she learnt at The National Collection of Art and Design in Dublin, which later studied at Central Saint martins. Her collections have gained her some of the most prestigious stockists in the world including Dover Street Market, Browns, Colette in Paris, Ikram in Chicago, Bergdorf Goodman and 10 Corso Como in Milan, Seoul and Shanghai. She has done numerous projects which have inspired other ambitious designers, from launching a collaboration with US based denim label J Brand to being received editorial coverage from high fashion publications such as Vogue US, Interview, Purple, Dazed and Confused and CR Fashion Book. Rocha has evolved into an internationally renowned and award-winning brand. In the past, accolades have included British Fashion Awards for ‘Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear’ (2013) and ‘The New Establishment Award’ (2014). Most recently at the 2016 Fashion Awards Simone received the “British Womenswear Designer Award” as well as the 2016 Harper’s Bazaar Designer of Year Award.Simone works on seasonal imagery and produces limited edition printed books featuring this and the works of collaborators and inspirations. Simone has worked with Jacob Lillis, Eoin McLoughlin, Louise Bourgeois, Perry Ogden, Niall O’Brien, Roni Horn and most recently Jackie Nickerson for these books.
House of Holland 17th February 18:30 pm
His name is what got the fashion world talking, after capitulating the limelight of everyone else after his irrelevant slogan tees. The slogan tees featured numerous ‘fashion groupie’ slogans with catchphrases that spoke louder than words. If you have a tee then you will recognise the phrases “uhu gareth pugh” and “get your freak on giles deacon”. In February 2008, after two seasons showing with Fashion East, House Of Holland held its first solo show on the London Fashion Week schedule to critical acclaim. Now in the brand’s 10th year, House Of Holland is firmly established in the international fashion arena and in January 2012 was awarded a two-season fashion forward sponsorship. Holland pictures the girl who wears his collections as someone who has a london aesthetic in mind and has various attitudes, cultures and mindsets about them. They are also cool, confident and savvy and wears labels without letting them wear her. If you are one of those girls, then you have done Henry Holland proud.
Nicopanda 19th February 18:00 pm
Known for his unsurpassed creativity and magnificent collaborations is style influencer Nicola Formichetti. And if you haven’t heard of his brand NICOPANDA, then you must of been living under a rock for the past few years. The city influenced brand has all things edgy and playful for the perfect ready-to-wear collection. NICOPANDA is at the forefront of the fashion world with the over the top creativity and uniqueness in the work. Loved by street culture enthusiasts around the world and frequently seen on the hottest celebrities and influencers, NICOPANDA is designed for all and available to all.
And if they are only a few of the 80 designers showcasing, then you know the rest will be shows not to miss… Make sure to stay tune with all the updates and news at LFW.
Written by Jordan Ellen Wood
Of course, the number 1 reason why we should go to London Fashion Week is because it is London Fashion Week. As much as we like to shrug off how in a matter of weeks, there will be all influencers, buyers and designers styling up one of the fashion cities in the world, we know deep down we want to be there…
Worldwide fashion designers such as Maison Margiela, House of Holland and Mulberry will be showcasing their newest collections to all of us fashion divas and inspirationals. But as much as we crave to get even a seat at the back behind the tall guy, LFW will be letting local designers showcase their collections as well. Being mentioned as ‘stars’ and ‘commercially ready’, I can’t wait as much as you to see the competition the catwalks will grace us this year. A few of the 10 local designers will include Andrew McAllister, Emma Kirwan and Emma Curtis.
Think we are all in the same boat, when we get the golden ticket to the worldwide known fashion event and stress ourselves out over what to wear. WHAT DO WE WEAR?! With bloggers, celebrities and influencers getting papped outside as they are the face of future trends, we need to make sure we are ahead of ourselves and in front of the line with street style. Do we go with our instincts and put on our favourite jazzy pants? Or do we look at predicted Spring 18 trends? Let's go with question 2! Spring trends at the moment are definitely making 2018 a great one already. With the likes of lavender, ice cream hues, saturated block colours and designers being influenced by art such as Picasso and Andy Warhol, we have a wide selection that will prepare us for being papped. Just maybe don’t add the oversized shades…
Have I made you want to attend the event even more? Thought I might… Check out our latest article on what designers will be showcasing their collections, so you can secretly pick your favorites.